2010: An Earth Odyssey: Bolivia

Showing posts with label Bolivia. Show all posts

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Thursday, February 17, 2011

I spent one day in the cozy town of Tupiza and I had the feeling to be back in United States. The landscape is really similar to the American one, with red rocks and mountains which remind me suggestive states like Arizona, Nevada or Colorado. Maybe that's the reason why the two famous thieves Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid moved here to end their "careers", as Butch Cassidy was killed here in Tupiza. Nowadays, Tupiza is a nice place to spend one day or two, for enjoying slowly the beautiful nature on a bike or an horse. And, yes, after more than two weeks I've finally seen again the rays of the sun! Then I moved to the small town of Uyuni by bus, the roadtrip to Uyuni has been the real highlight of the day and totally justified the detour I had from Potosi to Tupiza: almost 7 hours on a narrow gravel road up on incredible colorful mountains and gorgeus sceneries, for 4 euros only then! I was dreaming how beautiful should be to ride it on a bicycle, but honestly was unbelievable also from a giant bus on those small tracks...
Tomorrow I leave for a 3 days tour to the Salar de Uyuni, the biggest salt flat in the world.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Journey to hell: Potosi, Bolivia

Today I've had one of the most memorable, valuable and interesting experience of all my journey. I'm in Potosi, in Southern Bolivia, the highest city in the world at 4070m, a city that lives today's present on the same mining "industry" which gave it a glorious past (in the early 17th century Potosi was the most populated city in the world with 160,000 citizens). There are more than 450 mines around the city and the conditions the mineworkers are subject are among the most subhuman in the world. As I hopefully will be never a mineworker, I thought it would have been a remarkable experience to have a tour into those mines to understand better what it means working in such places. Well, Dante has probably took the inspiration from a Bolivian mine to write his Divine Comedy: that's the hell on Earth, for sure.

Let start saying that into those mines are employed about 20,000 workers, a couple of thousand of which are between the age of 12 and 16. Bolivian law forbid underaged workers but there are no controls, so nobody cares about their rights. The life expectancy for the adult workers is 42 years old, which dramatically decrease to 28-30 for people who starts working at younger age. They work 8 hours a day, 6 days a week, 50 metres below the ground at a temperature close to 40 degrees celsius. Moreover, outside the weather is awfully cold and in wintertime it can be minus 20 degrees. As this wouldn't be enough, the houses have no heating system and hot water is a real luxury... The average salary? 200 US dollars per month. To survive (just for few years) to this impossible conditions, they chew coca leaves all day long, starting early morning, and they drink pure alcohol at 96%.
Having a tour into one of those mines just for few hours has been eyes-opening for me. Once more, it was the closer thing to hell I've ever seen. Walking (but it's better say crawling) those narrow dark labyrinth of tunnels, with mineral's dust making the air unbreathable and the hot climate making you sweat for each single step, into the mud, along arsenic-covered rocks, potentially dangerous gas and an endless effort required, made me definitely understand I'm a very lucky one. I cannot ignore that.

Before leaving, the guide (which is working as a miner as well) told us not to forget to have children, as it's the only important thing in the world. His life expectancy gives him no hope: just few more years left, if he's lucky.
For sure, I'm gonna leave this place with less energies but a little bit more of consciousness and wisdom.

PS: The picture above shows you all the consciousness and wisdom I was talking about... Just a stupid tourist who plays with dynamite!

Saturday, February 12, 2011

La Paz, Bolivia

It's a long time I'm dreaming about traveling in Bolivia. Now I get it and I'm quite disappointed. I'm in La Paz, whose full name is Nuestra Señora de La Paz, and is the highest capitol of the world setted at 3600 mt on sea level. The urban sprawl is huge and even if the mountains surrounding the city can be charming for some views, many neighborhoods are scary as the poverty rate is really high and crime out of control. The main thing that shocked me is watching to all those working kids on the streets, on the buses, everywhere: they sell ropes, clone cds, coca leaves or they shine shoes. Underaged work isn't allowed, but authorities are probably unable to do anything when poverty bring population to this point. Ok, Bolivia is the poorest country in South America, but I didn't expect so much, honestly. I mean, if I hadn't travelled all those previous third world countries maybe I would be scared now to walk down the streets of La Paz, as some areas look more like dangerous favelas. More news soon to come.

Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)

2010: An Earth Odyssey

Some trips you don't know how they born. You hear the wail and know they are already there, alive, ready to begin their - your own - adventure. Gotcha again, you think, you gonna accept it with resigned fatalism. You can only take note with a smile and a bit of disenchantment amazement, while the eyes, veiled by a veneer of glossy nostalgia, linger persistently on the backpack forgotten for years at the bottom of the wardrobe.
The sense of wonder that fills you is same as always. Was together with you when running a bicycle through the woods as kid, now it follows you like a shadow as you run back and forth on this chessboard called Earth.
Did you remember how they grow, day by day, these travel wishes? You cleverly kept inside yourself as vibrant alternative to the monotonous routine of everyday life. So traveling had quickly turned into an ideal, just imagining it was enough to feel fine, to feel relieved, at peace.
What happens is that you wake up one morning and realize that something has changed. The scent of that idea is gone, dissolved forever. So you know it's time to bite the road and fill the hole in your stomach that now weighs more than indigestion.
In a hurry you prepare the backpack while out of your lips slowly roll a simple word:
I go.
This blog documents my unsure steps around this beautiful world.

Journey Statistics

Date: 8 August '10 – 28 March '11
(almost 8 months, 233 days)

Countries: 25 (Slovenija, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Turkey, Russia, Mongolia, China, South Korea, Japan, USA, Canada, Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costarica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Perù, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina).

Cities visited: 100 (Venice, Sofia, Plovdiv, Istanbul, Goreme, Trabzon, Sochi, Rostov, Volgograd, Moscow, Sergiev Posad, Suzdal, Vladimir, Irkutsk, Listvyanka, Bolshiye Koty, Ulan Ude, Ulan Bator, Beijing, Datong, Pingyao, Xi’an, Shanghai, Seoul, Gyeongju, Pusan, Fukuoka, Nagasaki, Hiroshima, Osaka, Kyoto, Takayama, Nara, Tokyo, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Rapid City, Saint Louis, Chicago, Montreal, Boston, Lowell, New York, Philadelphia, Washington, Atlanta, Nashville, Memphis, New Orleans, Dallas, San Antonio, Guadalajara, Mexico City, Oaxaca, San Cristobal de Las Casas, Palenque, Flores, Lanquin, Antigua, Granada, Altagracia, San Josè, Boquete, Panama City, Capurganà, Cartagena des Indias, Medellin, Salento, Otavalo, Quito, Cuenca, Saraguro, Trujillo, Huaraz, Lima, Arequipa, Chivay, Cuzco, Ollantaytambo, Aguas Calientes, Puno, La Paz, Sucre, Potosi, Tupiza, Uyuni, San Pedro de Atacama, Salta, Tilcara, Cordoba, Bariloche, El Bolsòn, El Chalten, El Calafate, Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas, Ushuaia, Rio Gallegos, Puerto Madryn, Mar del Plata, Buenos Aires).

Bus/Minibus: 107.
Train: 23 (Milan-Venice, Vladimir-Moscow, Moscow-Irkutsk, Irkutsk-Ulan Ude, Ulan Bator-Beijing, Datòng-Pingyao, Pingyao-Xi'an, Fukuoka-Nagasaki x2, Fukuoka-Hiroshima x2, Fukuoka-Osaka, Osaka-Takayama x2, Osaka-Nara x2, Osaka-Kyoto x2, Osaka-Tokyo, Boston-Lowell x2, Ollantaytambo-Aguas Calientes x2).
Ferry: 10 (Trabzon-Sochi, Listvyanka-Bolshiye Koty, Bolshiye Koty-Irkutsk, Weihai-Incheon, Pusan-Fukuoka, Granada-Altagracia, Altagracia-Rivas, Puertolindo-Capurganà, Punta Arenas-Tierra del Fuego x2).
Hitchiking: 8 (Gyeongju x2, Rapid City x3, Boquete Panama, El Calafate, El Chalten).
Bicycle: 5 (Olkhon, Xi'an, Isla de Ometepe, San Pedro de Atacama, Bariloche).
Flight: 2, just for crossing Pacific and Atlantic ocean (Tokyo-Los Angeles, Buenos Aires-Milan).

Overnight accomodations:

Robberies attempted: Rostov-na-Donu, Ulan Bator x2, Beijing, Buenos Aires.
Robberies suffered: The last day of travel, Buenos Aires.
Body weight lost: 25 kg (around 3 kilos per month).

Friendliest people: South Korea, Japan, Nicaragua.
Best food: China, Mexico, Argentina.
Best hostels: El Gualicho (Puerto Madryn, Argentina); Usa Hostels Hollywood (Los Angeles, Usa); The New York Loft (New York, Usa); Hongdae Guesthouse 2.0 - Yellow Submarine (Seoul, South Korea); Cruz del Sur (Ushuaia, Argentina); Baikaler Hostel (Irkutsk, Russia).

Inside the Backpack

2 jeans
vintage training pants
5 black cotton t-shirts
6 pair of socks (3 short, 3 long)
6 underpants
Barbour wool sweater
light cotton sweater
2 shirts (1 jeans long-sleeve, 1 cotton short-sleeve)
cotton scarf
North Sails windproof jacket
flip flops
cheap hiking shoes
(broken) umbrella
towel
pair of shorts
pair of training shorts
fake Armani leather belt
cap
2 bandanas
swimsuit
camping sheet
fake “The North Face” jacket (bought in China for few euros but never used ‘cause unbreathable worse than plastic bags)
Nikon D3000 digital camera with 18-55/55-200 mm lenses and battery charger
2 portable hard disk for picture storage
sunglasses
Swiss-army knife
small bag with medicines and body care stuffs

Around the World in 80 Meals

BULGARIA: Tarator (cold soup with yogurt and cucumbers), Shopska salata (cold salad with tomatoes , cucumbers, peppers, onion and cheese), Selska salata (salad similar to Shopska salad with more cheese), Tatarsko kufte (giant meatball). What to drink: Rakiya. Beer: Zagorka.
TURKEY: Doner kebab (roasted lamb or chicken meat sliced from a rotating spit and served with garnishes), Shish kebab (meat on skewer with vegetables). What to drink: Ayran. Beer: Efes.
RUSSIA: Borscht (beetroot soup), Pelmeni (dumplings filled with meat or mushrooms). What to drink: Vodka. Beer: Baltika.
MONGOLIA: Buuz (steamed dumplings filled with mutton meat), Bansh (boiled dumplings filled with meat), Khuushuur (large fried pockets filled with mutton meat), Mongolian barbecue (lamb or goat meat and vegetables cooked with rocks in large, round, pot), Budaatai Khuurga (stew with rice, vegetables, and meat), Tsuivan (stew with vegetables, meat, and fresh or fried noodles), Guriltai Shul (soup with meat and fried noodles). What to drink: Suutei tsai (salty tea with milk). Beer: Tiger.
CHINA: Peking roast duck (China’s National dish), Chow mein (fried or boiled noodles), Gelatinous soup (soup with chicken meat and gelatinous broth), Sichuan hot spicy soup (noodles with vegetables, seaweed and lots of red pepper), Chinese meatballs, Chinese hot pot (simmering pot with fresh ingredients cooked at the table), Mi xian (rice noodles served in soup with vegetables and meat), Soy noodles, Wonton (boiled or fried dumplings), Baozi (Chinese steamed buns). What to drink: herbal tea, green tea. Beer: Tsingtao, Laoshan.
SOUTH KOREA: Korean barbecue (meat barbecue with onions, garlic, green peppers and sauces), Mandu (Korean steamed dumplings), Kalguksu (handmade wheat flour noodles served in a large bowl with broth and other ingredients), Naengmyeon (cold noodles with ice and eggs), Korean pizza, Kimchi (traditional fermented dish made of vegetables with varied seasonings). What to drink: Soju, Makgeolli. Beer: Hite.
JAPAN: Sushi (rice with raw seafood), Sashimi (sliced raw seafood), Onigiri (rice balls with fillings), Yakisoba (fried noodles), Okonomiyaki (egg based pancake with vegetables and shrimps), Ramen (noodles soup with miso, pork, dried seaweed and onions), Udon (hot noodles soup with tofu and other ingredients). What to drink: Sake. Beer: Asahi.
USA: Cheeseburger, Hot dog Chicago style, Giordano’s pizza, Pancakes with maple syrup. What to drink: Dr Pepper. Beer: Budweiser, Miller.
MEXICO: Tacos al pastor (tacos with sliced pork meat), Tacos con chapulines (tacos topped with dried-chili flavoured grasshopers), Tacos a la ranchera, Enchiladas mole poblano (enchiladas with chocolate sauce), Fajitas (chicken meat with onions, peppers and seasonings), Tostadas (big round fried tortilla with various topping), Alambre (meat, onions, peppers, bacon, all grilled), Chicharrón (fried pork rinds). What to drink: Mezcal con gusano. Beer: Tecate, Corona.
NICARAGUA: Vigoròn (chopped cabbage, tomatoes, onions, and chili pepper marinated in vinegar and salt with boiled yuca and chicharrones wrapped in plantain), Gallo pinto (rice and beans fried together), Asado de cerdo (roasted pork meat with fried platans). What to drink: rum Flor de Caña. Beer: Toña.
COLOMBIA: Bandeja Paisa (meat, rice, beans, fried eggs, chorizo, pork rind), Arepa huevo (dish made of corn dough or flour, deep fried and filled with an egg). What to drink: aguardiente antioqueño. Beer: Aguila.
ECUADOR: Cevichochos (vegetarian ceviche), Ceviche (raw fish marinates with lime juice, onions and corn). Pollo asado (roasted chicken with garnishes). What to drink: jugo de tomate de arbol. Beer: Pilsener.
PERU: Ceviche (raw fish marinated in lime juice with onions, lettuce and corn), Picante de cuy (roasted guinea pig served with chili sauce), Caldo blanco (rice soup with potatoes and lamb meat), Trucha (boiled trout with rice), Almuerzo peruano (typical Peruvian lunch with soup and main dish). What to drink: chicha, Inca Kola, Pisco sour. Beer: Cusqueña stout.
BOLIVIA: Pollo frito (fried chicken), Humitas (dough with corn, slowly cooked in oil), Macarrones con carne (macaroni or other pasta with meat, onions and potatoes), Chorizo (sausage served with rice, potatoes and garnishes). What to drink: mate de coca. Beer: Paceña.
CHILE: Cazuela (soup with several meat and vegetables mixed together). What to drink: Pisco. Beer: Crystal.
ARGENTINA: Asado (beef meat cooked on "parilla"), Bife de chorizo (sirloin steak), Cordero asado (roasted lamb on barbecue), Empanadas (stuffed bread or pastry baked or fried and filled with meat, cheese or vegetables), Alfajores (biscuit with “dulce de leche” filling). What to drink: yerba mate, Malbec wine. Beer: Quilmes, Salta.

The e-book "Dal Cielo alla Terra" is a book of photographs and a travel diary published by TempoVissuto Edizioni. It contains, 22 among the best photographs I took during this journey and shown at the exhibition of the same name (17 exposed during the event and 5 exclusive for the digital volume). In addition, the introduction by Marco Papasidero places a reflection on the key elements of the pictures, while the critical comment by Laura Marsano examines in depth the artistic meaning and technique of the images. Each photograph is combined by the detailed description of the moments before and after the shoot. Mongolia, Russia, Japan, United States, Bolivia are just a few countries "captured" into the e-book, together with their colors, their scents and their skies above the Earth.
Free download! Click on the image above for being redirected to the corresponding page (only Italian version available).