2010: An Earth Odyssey: Puerto Madryn, Patagonia

Saturday, March 19, 2011

Puerto Madryn, Patagonia

I'm on the way back from Tierra del Fuego and I had a stopover in Puerto Madryn, a port town settled 145 years ago by Welsh emigrants. Nowadays the town is growing very quickly as it's experiencing an economic boom which is bringing 7 new citizens per day, moving here from the main Argentinian cities to work and to find their own fortune. For me, the main reason of the visit is related to the world famous natural reserve of the Valdez peninsula, which Puerto Madryn is the only gateway. Peninsula de Valdez is a real wildlife sanctuary, with whales, sea lions, sea elephants, penguins, foxes and the majestic killer whales. I remember I saw a couple of documentaries films on it by National Geographic. Unfortunately, this time of the year just few animals populate the peninsula and, unfortunately, no discounts on the crazy prices to get there even if animals are few. Yeah, Argentina is definitely an expensive country, all the prices increased dramatically since the last year and a half... lucky me. To

overcome this bad situation for my budget, the food I'm eating daily since I'm in Argentina has become more genuine, energetic and cheap, in other words extremely "basic": bread and "dulce de leche" mainly (dulce de leche is the popular Argentinian spreadable cream made by milk and tasting like caramel).
Anyway, I'm gonna leave Patagonia tonite. In all honesty, I was expecting Patagonia a little different, more wild, more scenic than what is it. The road I crossed through all Patagonia reveals its monotonous landscape: an endless desertic flat of steppe with no trees, mountains, or anything else. All the fields along the road are fenced which means they're private properties to breed the cattle, not as wild as expected. Tierra del Fuego is well different instead. Charles Darwin, Antoine de Saint-Exupery, Luis Sepulveda, Bruce Chatwin: all people who travelled here contributing to increase the myth of Patagonia itself. By the way, Patagonia still remains for me one of the main South America's highlights, together with the area included between South-West Bolivia, Atacama desert in Chile and Northern Argentina.
Bye bye penguins.

1 comment:

AnonymousMarch 20, 2011 at 12:00 AM
You've done what many people (me too) would like to do once in their life but they're not brave enough to do it.... Be proud of it!

Marco
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2010: An Earth Odyssey

Some trips you don't know how they born. You hear the wail and know they are already there, alive, ready to begin their - your own - adventure. Gotcha again, you think, you gonna accept it with resigned fatalism. You can only take note with a smile and a bit of disenchantment amazement, while the eyes, veiled by a veneer of glossy nostalgia, linger persistently on the backpack forgotten for years at the bottom of the wardrobe.
The sense of wonder that fills you is same as always. Was together with you when running a bicycle through the woods as kid, now it follows you like a shadow as you run back and forth on this chessboard called Earth.
Did you remember how they grow, day by day, these travel wishes? You cleverly kept inside yourself as vibrant alternative to the monotonous routine of everyday life. So traveling had quickly turned into an ideal, just imagining it was enough to feel fine, to feel relieved, at peace.
What happens is that you wake up one morning and realize that something has changed. The scent of that idea is gone, dissolved forever. So you know it's time to bite the road and fill the hole in your stomach that now weighs more than indigestion.
In a hurry you prepare the backpack while out of your lips slowly roll a simple word:
I go.
This blog documents my unsure steps around this beautiful world.

Journey Statistics

Date: 8 August '10 – 28 March '11
(almost 8 months, 233 days)

Countries: 25 (Slovenija, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Turkey, Russia, Mongolia, China, South Korea, Japan, USA, Canada, Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costarica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Perù, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina).

Cities visited: 100 (Venice, Sofia, Plovdiv, Istanbul, Goreme, Trabzon, Sochi, Rostov, Volgograd, Moscow, Sergiev Posad, Suzdal, Vladimir, Irkutsk, Listvyanka, Bolshiye Koty, Ulan Ude, Ulan Bator, Beijing, Datong, Pingyao, Xi’an, Shanghai, Seoul, Gyeongju, Pusan, Fukuoka, Nagasaki, Hiroshima, Osaka, Kyoto, Takayama, Nara, Tokyo, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Rapid City, Saint Louis, Chicago, Montreal, Boston, Lowell, New York, Philadelphia, Washington, Atlanta, Nashville, Memphis, New Orleans, Dallas, San Antonio, Guadalajara, Mexico City, Oaxaca, San Cristobal de Las Casas, Palenque, Flores, Lanquin, Antigua, Granada, Altagracia, San Josè, Boquete, Panama City, Capurganà, Cartagena des Indias, Medellin, Salento, Otavalo, Quito, Cuenca, Saraguro, Trujillo, Huaraz, Lima, Arequipa, Chivay, Cuzco, Ollantaytambo, Aguas Calientes, Puno, La Paz, Sucre, Potosi, Tupiza, Uyuni, San Pedro de Atacama, Salta, Tilcara, Cordoba, Bariloche, El Bolsòn, El Chalten, El Calafate, Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas, Ushuaia, Rio Gallegos, Puerto Madryn, Mar del Plata, Buenos Aires).

Bus/Minibus: 107.
Train: 23 (Milan-Venice, Vladimir-Moscow, Moscow-Irkutsk, Irkutsk-Ulan Ude, Ulan Bator-Beijing, Datòng-Pingyao, Pingyao-Xi'an, Fukuoka-Nagasaki x2, Fukuoka-Hiroshima x2, Fukuoka-Osaka, Osaka-Takayama x2, Osaka-Nara x2, Osaka-Kyoto x2, Osaka-Tokyo, Boston-Lowell x2, Ollantaytambo-Aguas Calientes x2).
Ferry: 10 (Trabzon-Sochi, Listvyanka-Bolshiye Koty, Bolshiye Koty-Irkutsk, Weihai-Incheon, Pusan-Fukuoka, Granada-Altagracia, Altagracia-Rivas, Puertolindo-Capurganà, Punta Arenas-Tierra del Fuego x2).
Hitchiking: 8 (Gyeongju x2, Rapid City x3, Boquete Panama, El Calafate, El Chalten).
Bicycle: 5 (Olkhon, Xi'an, Isla de Ometepe, San Pedro de Atacama, Bariloche).
Flight: 2, just for crossing Pacific and Atlantic ocean (Tokyo-Los Angeles, Buenos Aires-Milan).

Overnight accomodations:

Robberies attempted: Rostov-na-Donu, Ulan Bator x2, Beijing, Buenos Aires.
Robberies suffered: The last day of travel, Buenos Aires.
Body weight lost: 25 kg (around 3 kilos per month).

Friendliest people: South Korea, Japan, Nicaragua.
Best food: China, Mexico, Argentina.
Best hostels: El Gualicho (Puerto Madryn, Argentina); Usa Hostels Hollywood (Los Angeles, Usa); The New York Loft (New York, Usa); Hongdae Guesthouse 2.0 - Yellow Submarine (Seoul, South Korea); Cruz del Sur (Ushuaia, Argentina); Baikaler Hostel (Irkutsk, Russia).

Inside the Backpack

2 jeans
vintage training pants
5 black cotton t-shirts
6 pair of socks (3 short, 3 long)
6 underpants
Barbour wool sweater
light cotton sweater
2 shirts (1 jeans long-sleeve, 1 cotton short-sleeve)
cotton scarf
North Sails windproof jacket
flip flops
cheap hiking shoes
(broken) umbrella
towel
pair of shorts
pair of training shorts
fake Armani leather belt
cap
2 bandanas
swimsuit
camping sheet
fake “The North Face” jacket (bought in China for few euros but never used ‘cause unbreathable worse than plastic bags)
Nikon D3000 digital camera with 18-55/55-200 mm lenses and battery charger
2 portable hard disk for picture storage
sunglasses
Swiss-army knife
small bag with medicines and body care stuffs

Around the World in 80 Meals

BULGARIA: Tarator (cold soup with yogurt and cucumbers), Shopska salata (cold salad with tomatoes , cucumbers, peppers, onion and cheese), Selska salata (salad similar to Shopska salad with more cheese), Tatarsko kufte (giant meatball). What to drink: Rakiya. Beer: Zagorka.
TURKEY: Doner kebab (roasted lamb or chicken meat sliced from a rotating spit and served with garnishes), Shish kebab (meat on skewer with vegetables). What to drink: Ayran. Beer: Efes.
RUSSIA: Borscht (beetroot soup), Pelmeni (dumplings filled with meat or mushrooms). What to drink: Vodka. Beer: Baltika.
MONGOLIA: Buuz (steamed dumplings filled with mutton meat), Bansh (boiled dumplings filled with meat), Khuushuur (large fried pockets filled with mutton meat), Mongolian barbecue (lamb or goat meat and vegetables cooked with rocks in large, round, pot), Budaatai Khuurga (stew with rice, vegetables, and meat), Tsuivan (stew with vegetables, meat, and fresh or fried noodles), Guriltai Shul (soup with meat and fried noodles). What to drink: Suutei tsai (salty tea with milk). Beer: Tiger.
CHINA: Peking roast duck (China’s National dish), Chow mein (fried or boiled noodles), Gelatinous soup (soup with chicken meat and gelatinous broth), Sichuan hot spicy soup (noodles with vegetables, seaweed and lots of red pepper), Chinese meatballs, Chinese hot pot (simmering pot with fresh ingredients cooked at the table), Mi xian (rice noodles served in soup with vegetables and meat), Soy noodles, Wonton (boiled or fried dumplings), Baozi (Chinese steamed buns). What to drink: herbal tea, green tea. Beer: Tsingtao, Laoshan.
SOUTH KOREA: Korean barbecue (meat barbecue with onions, garlic, green peppers and sauces), Mandu (Korean steamed dumplings), Kalguksu (handmade wheat flour noodles served in a large bowl with broth and other ingredients), Naengmyeon (cold noodles with ice and eggs), Korean pizza, Kimchi (traditional fermented dish made of vegetables with varied seasonings). What to drink: Soju, Makgeolli. Beer: Hite.
JAPAN: Sushi (rice with raw seafood), Sashimi (sliced raw seafood), Onigiri (rice balls with fillings), Yakisoba (fried noodles), Okonomiyaki (egg based pancake with vegetables and shrimps), Ramen (noodles soup with miso, pork, dried seaweed and onions), Udon (hot noodles soup with tofu and other ingredients). What to drink: Sake. Beer: Asahi.
USA: Cheeseburger, Hot dog Chicago style, Giordano’s pizza, Pancakes with maple syrup. What to drink: Dr Pepper. Beer: Budweiser, Miller.
MEXICO: Tacos al pastor (tacos with sliced pork meat), Tacos con chapulines (tacos topped with dried-chili flavoured grasshopers), Tacos a la ranchera, Enchiladas mole poblano (enchiladas with chocolate sauce), Fajitas (chicken meat with onions, peppers and seasonings), Tostadas (big round fried tortilla with various topping), Alambre (meat, onions, peppers, bacon, all grilled), Chicharrón (fried pork rinds). What to drink: Mezcal con gusano. Beer: Tecate, Corona.
NICARAGUA: Vigoròn (chopped cabbage, tomatoes, onions, and chili pepper marinated in vinegar and salt with boiled yuca and chicharrones wrapped in plantain), Gallo pinto (rice and beans fried together), Asado de cerdo (roasted pork meat with fried platans). What to drink: rum Flor de Caña. Beer: Toña.
COLOMBIA: Bandeja Paisa (meat, rice, beans, fried eggs, chorizo, pork rind), Arepa huevo (dish made of corn dough or flour, deep fried and filled with an egg). What to drink: aguardiente antioqueño. Beer: Aguila.
ECUADOR: Cevichochos (vegetarian ceviche), Ceviche (raw fish marinates with lime juice, onions and corn). Pollo asado (roasted chicken with garnishes). What to drink: jugo de tomate de arbol. Beer: Pilsener.
PERU: Ceviche (raw fish marinated in lime juice with onions, lettuce and corn), Picante de cuy (roasted guinea pig served with chili sauce), Caldo blanco (rice soup with potatoes and lamb meat), Trucha (boiled trout with rice), Almuerzo peruano (typical Peruvian lunch with soup and main dish). What to drink: chicha, Inca Kola, Pisco sour. Beer: Cusqueña stout.
BOLIVIA: Pollo frito (fried chicken), Humitas (dough with corn, slowly cooked in oil), Macarrones con carne (macaroni or other pasta with meat, onions and potatoes), Chorizo (sausage served with rice, potatoes and garnishes). What to drink: mate de coca. Beer: Paceña.
CHILE: Cazuela (soup with several meat and vegetables mixed together). What to drink: Pisco. Beer: Crystal.
ARGENTINA: Asado (beef meat cooked on "parilla"), Bife de chorizo (sirloin steak), Cordero asado (roasted lamb on barbecue), Empanadas (stuffed bread or pastry baked or fried and filled with meat, cheese or vegetables), Alfajores (biscuit with “dulce de leche” filling). What to drink: yerba mate, Malbec wine. Beer: Quilmes, Salta.

The e-book "Dal Cielo alla Terra" is a book of photographs and a travel diary published by TempoVissuto Edizioni. It contains, 22 among the best photographs I took during this journey and shown at the exhibition of the same name (17 exposed during the event and 5 exclusive for the digital volume). In addition, the introduction by Marco Papasidero places a reflection on the key elements of the pictures, while the critical comment by Laura Marsano examines in depth the artistic meaning and technique of the images. Each photograph is combined by the detailed description of the moments before and after the shoot. Mongolia, Russia, Japan, United States, Bolivia are just a few countries "captured" into the e-book, together with their colors, their scents and their skies above the Earth.
Free download! Click on the image above for being redirected to the corresponding page (only Italian version available).